Edinburgh’s Waldorf Astoria And Its Roy Rogers Legend!
The Royal fervour displayed in Edinburgh recently was in near danger of repeating itself as me and my wife stepped on to the LNER train at York: destination Princes Street running parallel with the Scottish capital’s Royal Mile.
It was enough that I should be called Philip and my Filipino wife, Princess – we had already run the full gamut of jokes – but to then find ourselves sitting next to a self-confessed ‘Miss Jean Brodie’, retired economics teacher, Ann, on her way to a university reunion in Scotland’s first city, the communal laughter might almost have been too much for the carriage to bear!
However, two bacon sandwiches later, washed down with copious amounts of tea, coffee and alcohol – ‘free in first class’ are words to be used sparingly in the company of a Yorkshireman – the three of us had settled into an easy conversation.
Ann – an adopted Yorkshire woman of 35 years – was as excited to be ‘going home’ as much as we were thrilled to be visiting Edinburgh, my wife for the first time.
The 241 room Waldorf Astoria Edinburgh – The Caledonian, one of the city’s longest established properties, would be playing host for a couple of nights.
So, when Ann suddenly piped up that America’s 1950’s TV cowboy superstar, Roy Rogers, had once frequented ‘The Caley’ and, according to local legend, ridden his famous horse Trigger up the grand staircase, I concluded that a moment of Hamlet madness must have just entered the carriage!
But, she was right!
Standing proudly at the West End of Princes Street, at worst a brisk walk from Waverley Railway Station – it was raining heavily when we disembarked so we hopped on a bus – this former Victorian building, once part of a railway station itself, stands in the shadow of the city’s imposing castle, and has become one of Edinburgh’s most significant landmarks since opening in 1903.
And, not only has it attracted generations of locals and international visitors, but some of Hollywood’s finest have also graced its doors including Marlene Dietrich, Judy Garland, and Gene ‘Singin’ in the Rain’ Kelly.
Legend has it that Laurel and Hardy even coined their famous catchphrase there: “Now look what a fine mess you’ve got me into Stanley,” after the gormless half of the duo dropped a cup of coffee onto one of the restaurant’s fine, white tablecloths, compelling his hefty partner to make the now famous comment!
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It was now evening and my wife was about to deliver her own one-liner, only she neither realised nor appreciated her comic talents!
“You look like Jesus Christ,” she said to our bearded Sicilian waiter, Marco in the hotel’s relaxed-dining restaurant, Grazing by Greenaway, one of two award winning food experiences at the hotel.
I nearly choked on my glass of fizz but thought he was going to collapse to the floor laughing. “I ‘av been called many things….but Jesus Christ?” Still tittering under his breath, he shot away, returning with some miraculously tasty food.
Unfortunately, the short nature of the trip meant I did not have time to sample the tasting menu at Dean Banks at the Pompadour, the hotel’s other food outlet, but, did it really matter? I had just met my creator and he’d served me starters!
One for another time – or life – I mused!
The evening’s culinary offering was leisurely, tasty and delivered in a relaxing, ambient atmosphere and, after a long day travelling, and fully sated with Mr Greenaway’s hallmark offerings, we decided that an early night would stand us in good stead for the following day.
Our room – a King Premier with Castle view – is one of 241 beautifully decorated guest rooms and suites
Room 500 was elegant, roomy and relaxing, the most you could ask of a strange environment, and its views of Edinburgh Castle were second to none. No frosted glass in this bathroom window, not when the outlook was at level five!
Next morning, and to my amazement considering how much we’d eaten the night before, I was ready for breakfast in the hotel’s ‘Peacock Alley’ dining area, formerly the station concourse and ticket office, which, at worst, was majestic and reminiscent of a bygone era.
The service was excellent but, if I had one observation, it would be that morning tea, initially, should be served in teapots - not beakers from a silver 're-fill' pot - and the French pastries needed to be warm and fresh not kept at the side of the waiting area in the name of speedy service. Convenient for the waiting staff but not good for the customer.
Five stars above the door leaves little room for manoeuvre when the hotel is full of high net worth individuals from across the globe!
Peacock Alley also doubles as the area where you can get afternoon tea – which was excellent I have to say, or you can treat yourself to some of the finest Scottish Whiskies the country has to offer at The Caley Bar…..or simply indulge at the hotel’s spa and fitness centre, home to a luxurious swimming pool, sauna, steam room, whirlpool, and newly updated gym.
Needless to say, Edinburgh with its Royal Mile, Castle and multitude of tourist attractions, can rival anything that London has to offer.
But, if you also have a top notch place at which a Laird would even be glad to lay his head, then it's a damn good way to begin your exploration of this classy city.
Needless to say, the Waldorf Astoria Edinburgh – The Caledonian, is at the heart of all the action and, with a good head wind, you might even hear the ghost of Trigger making his way down the hotel’s majestic staircase to indulge in a bag of Scottish oats!
Practical Information
About Waldorf Astoria Hotels & Resorts
Waldorf Astoria is a part of global hospitality company, Hilton. You can experience the Waldorf Astoria Edinburgh – The Caledonian by booking at www.waldorfastoria.com or through the Hilton Honors mobile app. Nightly rates start from £210 on a room-only basis.
Trains to Edinburgh
LNER operates regular daily services to and from Edinburgh from London, the East Midlands, Yorkshire, North East England and destinations in Scotland. Customers who plan ahead and book direct via www.lner.co.uk or the LNER app are able to secure the best value fares.
LNER’s world-class Azuma trains offer generous legroom and free onboard Wi-Fi with the ability to order refreshments to your seat in Standard, while customers in First Class can enjoy a complimentary range of locally sourced food and drink.
By signing up to the LNER Perks loyalty scheme, customers receive £5 free credit for joining and two per cent credit back on each LNER journey.
About Author
Phil Hopkins is a member of the British Guild of Travel Writers and a lifetime honorary member of the National Union of Journalists. He has travelled internationally for more than 40 years, working in newspapers, radio and TV.
