The International, Bradford: Half a Century of Curry Done Properly
Bradford has more curry houses than almost any city in Britain. This one has outlasted nearly all of them, and the reason is on the plate.
There are curry houses, and then there is The International. Since 1976 this unassuming restaurant on Morley Street, tucked just below the Alhambra, has fed students, theatregoers, taxi drivers, councillors and three generations of the same families, and it has done so without ever pretending to be anything other than what it is: a place where the food comes first.
That confidence is baked into the menu. Two dishes, the Chicken Masala and the Meat Masala, carry the note "first introduced in 1976 by Raja Brothers", a quiet reminder that the recipes on the table predate most of the people eating them. The restaurant is still family run, Safeer Khan having taken the reins from his father, and a thorough refurbishment has smartened the dining room without touching the kitchen's soul. The welcome is as unhurried as ever.
Start, as everyone does, with the grill. The chargrill is the heart of this kitchen and the International House Mix for two (£17.95) is the quickest way to understand why. It arrives on a sizzler platter: chicken tikka boti with a proper char on the edges, seekh kebabs that are coarse, herby and juicy rather than the smooth paste served elsewhere, meat chops marinated to the bone, a meat samosa and a slab of masala fish with a crust that crackles. It is a starter that could reasonably be a main, which is your first clue about portion sizes here.
If you would rather go straight to the mains, the Tandoori Raja Mix Grill (£19.95) covers the same ground with king prawn tikka added, and comes with chickpea curry sauce, salad and pilau rice. Order one between two and you will still be asking for a box.
The real distinction, though, is in the sauces. Too many curry houses run everything from a single base gravy and simply vary the garnish. The International cooks in distinct styles, and you can taste it. The karahis, made to order with onions, ginger, garlic and tomato, are bright and sharp; the chicken and spinach karahi (£14.95) is a house classic that has barely changed in fifty years. The Punjabi desi dishes are a different beast altogether: darker, slower and richer. Desi lamb on the bone, sold by the half or full kilo (£21.95 and £31.95), is the sort of thing you tear at with a chapatti and stop talking for a while. The nihari (£15.95), a shank cooked overnight until it collapses, is worth the journey alone.
For the adventurous there is paya (trotters) and maghaz (brain), both in the traditional desi masala and both a long way from the standard Friday night order. For those who like it hot, the Masaledar, with bullet chillies and naga pickle, does not mess about. Every main comes with a choice of chapattis, rotis, rice or plain naan, and the breads deserve a word of their own: the tandoori roti (£1.40) is thin, blistered and exactly right for mopping.
Vegetarians are not an afterthought. The vegetable karahis (all £12.95) include sarson da saag, dall pothi with kidney beans and lentils, and a very good palak paneer. The old school favourites, from korma through to vindaloo, are all present for anyone who wants them.
The International is unlicensed, so bring your own bottle; the fresh mango lassi is a fine alternative anyway. Prices are honest, portions are generous to the point of comedy, and the kitchen runs late, until 1.30am on Saturdays.
Its position makes it the natural bookend to an evening at the Alhambra, St George's Hall or Bradford Live, all within a few minutes' walk, and that is exactly why you should book. Weekends and show nights fill fast. Such is the demand that the family has opened a second, 300-seat flagship on Sticker Lane, with proper parking and room for functions, but for atmosphere and history, Morley Street is where the story began.
Half a century in, The International is not trading on nostalgia. It is simply cooking as well as it ever has.
Practical Information
The International, Morley Street, Bradford BD7 1BA. 01274 721 449. internationalrestaurant.co.uk. Open from 4.30pm daily. Unlicensed, BYOB. Booking recommended.
