The Hill Country

The hill country exists as Sri Lanka’s climatic surprise: cool enough for jumpers, misty enough for atmosphere, green enough to make photography redundant. The train journey from Kandy to Ella — seven hours through tea plantations and tunnels — ranks among the world’s great railway experiences. The towns at either end offer enough to justify extended stays.

Kandy, the cultural capital, sprawls around its lake with the chaotic charm of a city that grew organically rather than planned. The Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic dominates the waterfront, housing what devotees believe is Buddha’s left canine. The evening puja ceremony — drums, incense, crowds pressing toward the inner sanctum — transmits significance regardless of your own beliefs. Entry: 2,000 LKR (£5). Modest dress required.

The Kandy-Ella train books out weeks ahead in first class; second-class unreserved is the budget traveller’s solution. Arrive an hour early to claim seats; accept that you may stand for portions. The scenery compensates: tea plantations cascading down impossible slopes, tunnels giving way to sudden panoramas, stations where vendors pass samosas through windows. The Nine Arch Bridge, visible as the train approaches Ella, has achieved Instagram fame that its Victorian builders never anticipated.

Ella itself has become backpacker central, which sounds like a warning but functions as a recommendation. The infrastructure that serves budget travellers — guesthouses, cafés, travel agents — also creates community. Hike Little Adam’s Peak (easy, free, views excellent) and Ella Rock (harder, also free, views superior). Rent scooters (1,500 LKR/£3.75 per day) to explore waterfalls and viewpoints. Eat at local places rather than tourist restaurants — the Ella Village Hotel rice and curry (800 LKR/£2) surpasses anything the cafés offer at three times the price.