Fine Dining At York’s Only Five-Star Hotel – Be Part Of The Legacy
The fare may have been intrinsically local with a strong regional focus, but when your bread roll arrives with not just goats herb butter, but a piece of welcome advice designed to put you at your ease, you know you have just arrived in Yorkshire’s ‘capital’!
York may be home to some of the country’s finest Roman remains, history, culture and its very own infamous highwayman, Dick Turpin, but it is also where you will find The Grand Hotel and the city’s only five-star property.
Nestled just across from Station Road bridge, The Grand has just launched its new fine dining restaurant, Legacy where Head Chef, Ahmed Abdalla, is the man who has created a menu dedicated to local provenance and designed to showcase some of the county’s classic produce.
But, without his team of superb ‘front men’ he would merely be a chef with a dream, for Restaurant Manager Derek Scaife, Antonio from Greece and the exquisitely manicured Emma from Howden, in her stunning evening gown complete with beautifully rounded Yorkshire vowels, are the front of house dream team that complete this superb culinary offering.
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Soon after the opening volley of canapes – Lindisfarne oyster with a fermented grape verjus dressing, smoked cod roe and ham hock tartlet…
... Sommelier trained Derek was first to break the ice as he brought in the Jersey Royal Velouté and two Parkerhouse bread rolls complete with cultured and goats herb butters.
“We actively encourage the Yorkshire use of the roll,” he grinned. My Filipino wife asked him what he meant but Derek looked at me, having clocked my Leeds accent, and added: “I’ll leave you to explain!”
“It means don’t forget to dip your bread into the sauce so that none’s wasted, feel free to wipe the plate!” I said.
My wife, not batting an eyelid, said they used to do that in Manila and wasn’t quite sure what all the fuss was about the ‘posher’ you got. I grinned, not having a spare lifetime in which to explain the peculiarities of British ‘manners’. Culinary Yorkshire had just adopted another daughter!
Mr Abdalla’s take on a French velouté sauce, made from oak smoked cheddar, was exquisite, lighting up our palates in readiness for the BBQ Langoustine that was about to follow.
A few minutes earlier the Head Chef, in his crisp whites, had made a brief appearance to introduce both himself and his canapes.
“I am inspired by the processes of the pioneers of York’s past; those individuals who turned their imagination into reality, which can now be seen in iconic buildings, revolutionary railways and the heritage of this great city. I am delighted by the opportunity to look at things through a new lens, delivering traditional ingredients in an exciting new style whilst fully utilising the great produce Yorkshire has to offer,” he told us: and off he went back to the grind of the kitchen.
We enjoyed the langoustines, complete with a delicate square of ravioli, before Derek, the inspiration behind the restaurant’s cutlery, glassware and wine list, cleared and re-charged our glasses with sparkling bubbly, before beckoning Emma forward with the next course: baked celeriac with black garlic, summer shaved truffle and hazelnuts.
Looking as fine as the food itself in her long, elegant, red evening gown, Emma, daughter of a Howden farming family, riveted us with her story of how she’d abandoned the UK’s ‘overly theoretical’ catering schools, in favour of one of the Netherlands finest. A quarter of the price, hugely practical and gateway to her now five-star career at The Grand, she had enjoyed every minutes of her time on mainland Europe: here was a girl with a true understanding of the word thrift! Margaret Thatcher would have been proud! Her dad already was.
Salt baked halibut with a cauliflower and sparkling wine mousseline sauce, along with caviar and mussels on the side, was followed by Kirkby Malzeard Yorkshire lamb.
A fruit compote, made up of ‘Annabel’s’ finest strawberries, purchased, we were assured from the deepest corners of the county, cleansed our palates as Dvorak’s New World Symphony simmered in the background.
We were fast running out of room as the honey ice cream complete with meringue and white chocolate slipped down our throats.
Antonio, who was wearing a wrist support, stepped forward. Discretion prompted me not to ask. He assured us that the final course – a raft of Yorkshire cheeses – would be accompanied with honey from the hotel’s very own beehives located on the roof.
Our stomachs were now groaning. “Take your time,” said Derek, “no rush”. Abdalla had excelled himself and so had his front of house team.
Professionally his background includes York restaurant, Skosh, Yorebridge House in The Dales and stages at Restaurant Hywel Jones – Lucknam Park and Whatley Manor’s restaurant – The Dining Room. His high-end experienced shone through.
Legacy’s interiors have been constructed by industry-leading designer, Faber and with sustainability at the heart of both the build and culinary operation, environmentally conscious choices have been made throughout.
The restaurant’s interior pays homage to the pioneering spirit of the inspiring engineers and architects of York’s past.
Legacy boasts innovative cuisine with locality, sustainability and great northern hospitality at its core.
The setting is bold yet elegant, seating up to 26 covers, with interiors demonstrating the building’s iconic and historic features with modern twists, including blueprint murals, oak panelling, sculptural lighting, industrial ironwork and crisp colour contrasts.
It is a place to relax and enjoy. We did both and The Grand can be confident that it will soon be part of the city’s wider legacy.
Details of the eight course tasting menu: www.thegrandyork.co.uk/legacy/
