Christmas Markets: A Connoisseur’s Guide

The originals remain superior to British versions. Dresden’s Striezelmarkt dates from 1434; Nuremberg’s Christkindlesmarkt is arguably the most traditional; Cologne operates several markets with distinct character. Skip Rothenburg ob der Tauber (beautiful but overrun). Instead, try Freiburg’s market in the shadow of the münster, or smaller Bavarian markets in Regensburg and Bamberg. Go in December evenings when lights reflect on snow, and understand that Glühwein improves everything.